My keyboard feels scratchy. What's the best lubricant and guide for lubing my own mechanical keyboard switches?

If your switches feel scratchy, lubing is one of the best DIY fixes. The main thing is choosing the right lube for your switch type and using much less than you think.

My recommendation

• Linear switches (Red, Yellow, Black, etc.): Krytox 205g0. It's the standard beginner-friendly choice and is particularly good at smoothing scratchiness.
• Tactile switches (Brown, Clear, Holy Panda, etc.): Tribosys 3203 is my safer recommendation because it's thinner and is less likely to flatten the tactile bump. 3204 is a slightly heavier alternative.
• Springs: Krytox 105 oil, preferably bag-lubed. This addresses spring ping/crunch without putting thick grease where it doesn't belong.
• Clicky switches: Don't lube the click mechanism; lubricant can significantly alter or ruin the intended click.

For a first project, I'd buy 205g0 + a small 0/00 brush + switch opener + tweezers. A lube station is convenient but absolutely not necessary.

• Krytox 205g0 5ml - $11.99 (Mechanical Keyboards)
• Krytox 205g0 3ml - $7.95 (Divinikey)
• Tribosys 3203 - $15.34 (pantheonkeys)
• Krytox GPL 105 - $9.95 (Thock King)
• Switch Lube Station Kit - $25.49 (Walmart - DOINSPRING)

The basic process

1. Remove the keycaps and switches. If it's hot-swap, use a switch puller. If it's soldered, you'll need to desolder them.
2. Open each switch with the appropriate switch opener. Keep the four parts together: top housing, bottom housing, stem and spring.
3. Lube the bottom housing: put a tiny amount on your brush and coat the two rails where the stem slides. You want a thin, even sheen, not visible blobs.
4. Lube the stem: lightly coat the surfaces that contact those rails. For a linear, you can also lubricate the stem legs. For a tactile, avoid the tactile-contact legs if preserving the bump is important to you.
5. Lube the spring: bag-lube with a few drops of Krytox 105, shake thoroughly, then let excess oil distribute before assembly.
6. Reassemble and test one switch before doing the whole board. This is important—you don't want to discover that you over-lubed 70 switches.
7. Repeat consistently.

The golden rule: if you can see thick white deposits of 205g0, you've probably used too much. It's much easier to add lubricant than remove it.

Best video guide

That's probably the guide I'd follow for your first attempt; it demonstrates the entire process and specifically covers the differences between linear and tactile switches.

If you tell me the exact switch in your keyboard (e.g. Gateron Oil King, Cherry MX Brown, Gateron Baby Kangaroo, etc.), I can tell you exactly which lube to use, which parts to lube, and which parts to leave dry.

The scratchy feeling in your mechanical keyboard switches is caused by friction between the plastic stem and the switch housing. Lubing your switches will eliminate this scratchiness, deepen the sound profile (making it "thocky"), and smooth out the keystrokes.

Here is the best lubricant selection and a step-by-step guide to doing it yourself.

🧪 The Best Lubricants

Choosing the right lubricant depends entirely on your specific switch type:

• Linear Switches (e.g., Reds, Yellows, Blacks): Krytox GPL 205g0 . This is the gold standard grease. It provides a buttery smooth feel and a deep sound.
• Tactile Switches (e.g., Browns, Clears, Holy Pandas): Krytox GPL 3203 or Tribosys 3203 . These are thinner lubes. They smooth the switch without destroying the tactile "bump" sensation.
• Switch Springs: Krytox GPL 105 . This is a high-performance oil. It is perfect for eliminating spring ping.
• Stabilizers: Permatex Dielectric Grease or XHT-BDZ . These thick greases stop the metal wire rattling on your larger keys (Spacebar, Shift, Enter).

🛠️ Required Tools

Before starting, gather these essential tools. You can buy them individually or in a cheap "keyboard lubing kit" online:

• Switch puller (to remove switches from hot-swap boards)
• Keycap puller
• Switch opener (MX-style or Box-style depending on your switches)
• Fine-tipped paint brush (Size 00 or 0 round brush)
• Tweezers (to hold small parts)
• Clean workspace / Lube station

📖 Step-by-Step Lubing Guide

Note: If your keyboard is not "hot-swappable," you will need to desolder the switches from the circuit board first. If it is hot-swappable, you can pull them right out.

1. Disassemble the Switch

• Place the switch into your switch opener and press down.
• The four clips holding the housing together will pop open.
• Separate the switch into its four core components : the bottom housing, the spring, the stem, and the top housing. Keep them organized in separate piles.

2. Lube the Bottom Housing

• Dip your brush lightly into the Krytox 205g0 (or 3203). Less is more. The brush should look shiny, not globbed with white paste.
• Paint the two slider rails where the stem slides up and down.
• Lightly coat the bottom floor of the housing and the center cylindrical pole. Avoid getting excess lube inside the center hole.

3. Lube the Springs

• Method A (Precise): Lightly brush Krytox 105 oil or 205g0 onto the very top and very bottom rings of the spring.
• Method B (Fast/Bag Lubing): Put all your springs into a plastic Ziploc bag. Add 10–12 drops of Krytox 105 oil. Blow air into the bag to inflate it, seal it, and shake vigorously for one minute.

4. Lube the Stem

• Hold the cross-shaped top of the stem with your tweezers.
• Apply a thin, even coat of lube to the two flat side-rails.
• Coat the front and back flat faces of the stem.
• Crucial step for Tactile Switches: Do not lube the two small legs on the front of a tactile stem. Doing so will completely wipe out the tactile bump, making your switch feel like a mushy linear.

5. Reassemble and Test

• Place the spring back into the bottom housing.
• Lower the stem over the spring (ensure the legs face the metal contact leaves in the housing).
• Snap the top housing back onto the bottom housing until it clicks.
• Press the switch in your hand to test smoothness. If it feels mushy or sticks, you used too much lubricant. If it still feels scratchy, you used too little.

To help give you the most accurate advice, tell me:

• What specific keyboard or switch model do you have?
• Is your keyboard hot-swappable , or will it require soldering?
• Do you prefer a crisp, snappy feel or a deep, muted acoustic sound?

If your switches feel scratchy, lubing is one of the most effective fixes. The best lubricant depends mainly on whether your switches are linear, tactile, or clicky.

What I’d buy

• Linear switches: Krytox GPL 205g0 — the standard beginner-friendly choice. It’s thick enough to smooth stem/housing friction without being excessively heavy when applied correctly.
• Tactile switches: Tribosys 3203 — thinner, so it smooths the switch while preserving more of the tactile bump.
• Springs: Krytox GPL 105 oil. It's much thinner than 205g0 and is excellent for eliminating spring ping/crunch.
• Clicky switches: I generally wouldn't lube the click mechanism; lubrication can substantially alter or kill the intended click.

If you have ordinary linear switches and just want one answer: buy Krytox 205g0 + a small size-0 brush. If you also want to treat spring noise, add GPL 105.

Beginner guide

The excellent Tom's Hardware switch-lubing guide walks through the process with photos.

You'll need:

• Switch opener appropriate for your switches
• Fine brush, around size 0
• Tweezers
• Small containers for the switch parts
• Lube
• Optional: switch/lube station

The basic technique

1. Remove and open the switches. Don't try to lube them while they're installed; you want the individual housing, stem, spring, and top housing separated.
2. Lube the bottom housing. Put a very thin film on the two rails where the stem slides. You should barely be able to see the lubricant. Visible blobs mean you've used too much.
3. Lube the stem. For linears, lightly coat the stem's sliding surfaces with 205g0. Don't cake it on—the goal is a thin, uniform film.
4. Lube the spring. The easiest method is "bag lubing": put springs in a small zip bag with a few drops of GPL 105, close it, and shake thoroughly so the oil distributes over the springs.
5. Reassemble. Put spring → stem → top housing back together, making sure everything is seated correctly.
6. Test before doing the entire board. Do 2–3 switches first and compare them with an untouched switch. This is particularly important with tactiles because too much lubricant can noticeably reduce the bump.

The most important beginner rule

Use less lube than you think you need.

Overlubing is much harder to fix than underlubing. With 205g0, you want something approaching a film, not a layer of grease.

Also, don't automatically use 205g0 everywhere. A tactile switch's feel depends on the stem interacting with its leaf, so putting thick grease on those contact areas can make a tactile switch feel mushy.

If you tell me the exact switch model you have (e.g. Gateron Oil King, Cherry MX Brown, Akko Cream Yellow, etc.), I can tell you exactly which lube to use and which parts of that particular switch to lube or leave alone.

Fixing a scratchy keyboard is one of the most satisfying modding projects you can take on. To get rid of that scratchy friction, you'll want the right grade of lubricant and a methodical approach.

The Best Lubricants for Switches

The gold standard for mechanical keyboard switches comes from the Krytox and Tribosys lines (PFPE-based greases and oils). Your choice depends heavily on whether your switches are linear (smooth all the way down) or tactile (have a bump).

The undisputed community favorite for linear switches . It provides supreme buttery smoothness. It can also be used on tactiles, but you must apply it extremely sparingly so you don't accidentally mute the tactile bump.

Slightly more viscous/thinner than 205g0, making it very forgiving and great for beginners . It works wonderfully on both linears and mild tactiles without completely killing the tactility.

Thinner still, making them the safest bet for strong tactile switches if you want to keep the sharp bump intact while eliminating scratchiness.

A thin oil used specifically for lubing springs quickly via the bag-lubing method (though you can also just brush a tiny bit of 205g0 on the spring ends).

Step-by-Step Guide to Lubing Switches

You will need: your choice of switch lube, a small #0 or #00 fine paintbrush, a compatible switch opener, a pair of tweezers, and optionally a switch station/tray.

1. Disassemble the Switch
   Use your switch opener to pop open the top housing of the switch. Separate the top housing, stem, spring, and bottom housing. Keep them organized in batches (e.g., groups of 10 to 20).
2. Lube the Springs
   • Fast method: Put all your springs into a small Ziploc bag or airtight container , add 3–5 drops of Krytox GPL 105 oil, seal the bag with air inside, and shake vigorously for 30 seconds. They should have a light, even sheen.
   • Manual method: Lightly dab the top and bottom coils of each spring with a small amount of 205g0 using a brush or tweezers. This stops "pinging" noises.
3. Lube the Bottom Housing
   Dip your brush very lightly into your 205g0 Go to product viewer dialog for this item. or 3204 —wipe off any heavy clumps on the edge of the jar . Apply a microscopic, translucent layer to the rails (the tracks where the stem slides up and down) inside the bottom housing and lightly around the center post hole. It should look like a faint gloss, not a wet puddle.
4. Lube the Stem
   Grab the stem with your tweezers. Lightly brush a thin layer on the two side slider rails and the front/back flat faces.
   • Crucial note for tactile switches: Do not lube the "legs" (the little protruding feet on the side that hit the metal leaf), or you will dramatically reduce or eliminate the tactile bump. For linear switches, you can lube the legs lightly or completely ignore them.
5. Reassemble
   Drop the lubed spring into the bottom housing, seat the stem back inside, snap the top housing back on, and test it by pressing it down. It should feel noticeably smoother and quieter.

Community Voices

If you want to tailor this further, let me know:

• Are your switches linear or tactile?
• Are they factory-lubed already, or completely dry?

That scratchy feeling is the classic sign of dry friction between the plastic stem rails and the housing. Tackling the job yourself transforms a scratchy board into a buttery-smooth typing machine, but it takes patience.

The Best Lubricants for Switches

The golden rule is matching your lube viscosity to your switch type. Never use household oils or WD-40, as they break down plastic or evaporate quickly.

Linear Switches (Smooth travel): [Krytox GPL 205g0 Go to product viewer dialog for this item. ](https://google.com/goto?url=CAESWgHrOzAVG0vSJAWdA7iO3gwfpLPSFs7Mr2yWomemadKSHm6rfyGmj2LmERJA9vAVQLu3mg70eYHwPBhRuEWJE8EsyCKUFwomlMsiUkX8kR1nicpI6rvs0-Bs6Q) is the community gold standard. It’s a thick, PTFE-thickened grease that delivers a creamy feel and deep sound signature.

Tactile Switches (Bumpy feedback): [Tribosys 3203 Go to product viewer dialog for this item. ](https://google.com/goto?url=CAESpAEB6zswFaUzkROYLJZN9252cq_AgyoV3aUUkd3hflS4qdlEuA0rGHWY6YYPgQV0duU9A5zMDmDxDIC9sf2mBTvTQCAautyfGxdO_4K4czQpjawMNDe4UlRNxlSHaaGoMCnKxdIEv4N73OAEaqaXjasRZ4DCKJrY6e_2ynPgQKXmCl7AoNJOfcmfUxCmMgz8yH6O4pPNv7C1EtybLT0vh_Bcrec5gA) or Tribosys 3204 Go to product viewer dialog for this item. . They are thinner than 205g0, which means they eliminate scratchiness without muting or "rounding off" the tactile bump.

Springs (Kill ping): [Krytox GPL 105 Go to product viewer dialog for this item. ](https://google.com/goto?url=CAESaAHrOzAVxgKQpc8oED_Dc8M_XTDjOUvIIYEHsv6VMEdt0J57Uc6RVb6PA0TPy1ipDxNF5_QF7h73cm9vbTRF-dSJQbTv8hpte6mfKUGK5qJRfDanjNRs86Iozvbu8oSY_UCzOWyPt86T) oil. A light oil coats the coils cleanly without creating drag or slowing down the return. (Note: You can also lightly hand-lube spring ends with 205g0 if you don't want to buy a separate oil).

Tools You Will Need

• Switch opener (Matched to your switch type, e.g., Cherry MX style or Kailh box)
• Fine paintbrushes (Size 00 or 000)
• Precision tweezers or a stem picker tool
• Lube station or small clean ceramic/plastic palette
• Ziploc bag (if bag-lubing springs)

Step-by-Step Guide to Lubing

1. Disassemble and Strip: Remove the keycaps and extract the switches from the board (desoldering required if your board isn't hot-swappable). Use your switch opener to pop open the top housing and separate the stem, spring, and bottom housing. Organize them in trays.
2. Lube the Springs: Drop all your springs into a Ziploc bag, add 3 to 4 drops of Krytox 105 oil Go to product viewer dialog for this item. , seal it with air trapped inside, and shake gently for a minute . They will emerge evenly coated.
3. Lube the Bottom Housing: Dip your brush into your grease (205g0 or 3203) and wipe off almost all of it on the edge of the container container—the brush should look barely wet, not clumpy. Lightly paint the two vertical inner guide rails where the stem slides. Avoid the copper contact leaf completely.
4. Lube the Stem: Pick up the stem with tweezers. Lightly apply a microscopic layer of lube to the four outer flat walls that slide against the housing.
   • Crucial Tactile Warning: If using 205g0 or 3203 on tactile switches , completely avoid the protruding side legs (the "feet" of the stem) unless you purposely want to kill the tactile bump.
5. Reassemble: Drop the lubed spring into the bottom housing, seat the stem back down, snap the top housing back over it, and test the action. It should glide instantly without looking chalky or white.

If you tell me what specific switches you are using (linear vs. tactile) and whether your keyboard is hot-swappable or soldered , I can give you a better idea of how long the job will take and if you need switch films.

If the scratchiness is coming from the switches themselves, lubing is one of the best DIY fixes. I checked current guides and product options, and the big thing is: use the right viscosity for your switch type and apply very little.

My recommendation

For linear switches (Red, Yellow, Black, etc.):

Krytox GPL 205g0 5ml

$11.99

Krytox GPL 205g0 is the safest beginner recommendation. It's a medium/thick grease widely used for linear switches and should noticeably reduce scratchiness while giving a smoother, slightly deeper sound.

For tactile switches (Brown, Clear, Boba U4T, etc.), I'd instead use Tribosys 3203:

Tribosys 3203

$15.25

It's thinner and less likely to flatten the tactile bump.

For springs, Krytox 105 oil is a useful second lubricant; you can bag-lube the springs rather than painstakingly brush each one.

What you'll need

• Switch opener appropriate for your switch
• Small size 0 or 00 paintbrush
• Tweezers
• Stem holder (optional but very handy)
• Small container/tray for parts
• Lube station — optional, not necessary

Mechanical Keyboards Modular Lube Station Kit

$26.00

A lube station is nice if you're doing 70–100+ switches, but don't feel obligated to buy one. A few small containers work fine.

The basic process

1. Remove the switches. If your keyboard is hot-swappable, use a switch puller. If it's soldered, you'll need to desolder them.
2. Open each switch with the appropriate opener.
3. Lube the bottom housing rails. Put a tiny amount on your brush and coat the two stem rails with a very thin, even film.
4. Lube the stem. On a linear, lightly coat the sliding surfaces/rails and appropriate stem surfaces.
5. Lube the spring. Bag-lubing with 105 is the easy method.
6. Reassemble and test.
7. Repeat—and use less lube than you think you need. Visible blobs of 205g0 generally mean you've applied too much.

Here's the best beginner-friendly visual guide I found, from Tom's Hardware:

And this is a particularly useful detailed walkthrough from Kinetic Labs:

⚠️ One important exception

If yours are clicky switches (Cherry MX Blue/Green, Kailh Box clickies, etc.), don't blindly follow a linear-switch lubing tutorial. Lubricating the click mechanism can substantially change or dampen the click.

Also, don't use WD-40, random household oil, or petroleum grease. Use a keyboard-specific lubricant intended for plastic switch components.

If you tell me the exact keyboard and switch name (e.g. "Keychron K8 with Gateron Browns"), I can tell you exactly which lube to buy, which switch parts to lube, and which parts to leave dry.

The best lubricant for your mechanical keyboard depends on your switch type: Krytox GPL 205g0 Go to product viewer dialog for this item. is the undisputed gold standard for linear switches, while Tribosys 3203 Go to product viewer dialog for this item. or 3204 Go to product viewer dialog for this item. is ideal for tactile switches to prevent ruining the tactile bump. Lubing your own switches completely eliminates scratchiness and metallic spring ping, resulting in a buttery-smooth feel and a deeper sound profile.

Never lube clicky switches (like Blues), as grease will ruin the click mechanism.

The Best Lubricants

Tools You Will Need

Before starting, set up a clean workspace and grab these essentials:

• Switch Opener : Specially molded to pop open MX switch housings instantly.
• Fine Paintbrush : A size 00 or 0 fine-tipped brush.
• Tweezers or Stem Holder : A jeweler's claw clamp helps hold tiny stems.
• Keycap & Switch Puller : To safely pull components out of hot-swap keyboards.

Step-by-Step Lubing Guide

The absolute golden rule of lubing is less is more . If the grease looks white and thick on the plastic, it is too much. It should only look like a shiny sheen.

1. Open the Switch

• Place the switch into your switch opener.
• Press down gently until the four side clips pop loose.
• Carefully separate the components: top housing, stem, spring, and bottom housing.

2. Lube the Bottom Housing

• Dip your brush into the grease and wipe off the excess on the container rim.
• Paint a very thin layer onto the two vertical slider guide rails.
• Lightly brush the inside bottom floor where the stem bottoms out.
• Warning: Avoid touching the metal leaf contact pins, or the switch may fail.

3. Lube the Spring

• The Fast Way (Bag Lubing) : Put all your springs into a Ziploc bag, add 10–15 drops of Krytox 105 oil, blow air to inflate the bag, and shake vigorously for one minute.
• The Detailed Way : Lightly brush a tiny amount of grease onto the top and bottom rings of the spring coil.

4. Lube the Stem (Most Crucial Step)

• Secure the stem using your stem holder or tweezers.
• Apply a micro-layer of grease to the two outer side rails that slide against the housing.
• Lightly brush the flat front and back faces of the stem.
• Crucial Rule for Tactile Switches : Do NOT paint the legs (the two front prongs with tiny bumps). Lubing these legs will completely erase the tactile bump and make them feel mushy. (Always lube the legs on linear switches).

5. Reassemble

• Drop the lubed spring back into the center of the bottom housing.
• Align the stem over the spring (ensure the legs face the metal contact leaf).
• Snap the top housing back down until it clicks locked.
• Press the switch a few times in your hand to evenly spread out the internal lubricant.

If you want to optimize your workflow, let me know:

• What exact brand and model of switches do you have?
• Is your keyboard hot-swappable , or will it require desoldering?

I can give you a tailored breakdown of how much time it will take and how to organize your workspace!

If the scratchiness is coming from the switches themselves, hand-lubing is one of the best fixes. The key is using the right lube and using much less than you think.

What lube should you use?

rytox 205g0 mechanical keyboard switch lubricant for linear switches

For linear switches: Krytox GPL 205g0 is the standard recommendation. It smooths the stem/housing friction and gives a slightly deeper, more damped sound.

ribosys 3203 mechanical keyboard lubricant for tactile switches

For tactile switches: I'd use Tribosys 3203 (or 3204). They're thinner, so they're less likely to diminish the tactile bump.

For springs: Krytox 105 oil is a popular choice, particularly for eliminating spring ping/crunch. Bag-lubing the springs is quick and consistent.

My beginner setup

You really don't need a giant kit:

• Switch opener appropriate for your switches
• Fine 0 or 00 paintbrush
• Tweezers
• Stem holder — optional but very convenient
• 205g0 for linears or 3203/3204 for tactiles
• 105 oil for springs — optional
• Small container/tray for switch parts

Krytox GPL 205 Grade 0 (Krytox 205g0)

$8.21

The actual process

1. Remove the switches and keycaps.
2. Open one switch at a time initially. Keep the top, bottom, stem and spring together.
3. Lube the bottom housing: put a tiny amount on your brush and wipe off excess. Brush the two rails where the stem slides. You should see a very thin sheen—not blobs.
4. Lube the stem: coat the sliding surfaces very lightly. For linears, you can lube the stem legs as well. For tactiles, avoid the legs/contact points because that's where you'll diminish the bump.
5. Lube the spring: either brush it individually or bag-lube all your springs with a small amount of 105.
6. Put everything back together and test that switch.
7. Once you've got your technique right, do the rest in batches of ~10–20.

A good visual guide is Taeha Types' “How to Lube MX Style Switches” video; it walks through disassembly, bottom housing, linear vs. tactile application, springs, stem, and reassembly. urn0youtube19

There's also a very good written walkthrough from Kinetic Labs with close-up descriptions of exactly where to apply the lube.

⚠️ The biggest beginner mistake

Over-lubing. If you can visibly see thick white grease on the switch, you've probably used too much. Excess lube can make a switch feel sluggish or mushy; it's much easier to add a little more than to remove it.

Also, don't use WD-40 or generic household/machine lubricants. Use a lubricant intended for keyboard switches.

If you tell me the exact switches in your keyboard (e.g. Gateron Yellow, Cherry MX Brown, Akko Cream Yellow, etc.) and whether they're linear/tactile/clicky, I can tell you exactly which lube to use and which parts of your particular switches to lube or leave dry.

Scratchiness is the ultimate nemesis of a clean typing experience. Fixing it takes a bit of patience, but hand-lubing your switches completely transforms how a keyboard feels and sounds.

The Best Lubricants

The community gold standard for switch lubricants is synthetic PFPE-based grease. What you choose depends entirely on whether your switches are linear (smooth all the way down) or tactile (have a bump).

The undisputed champion for linear switches . It is a Grade 0 grease that provides a buttery-smooth glide and deepens the acoustic sound profile. You can use it on tactile switches, but you must apply it with an extremely light hand so you don't mute the tactile bump.

A thinner alternative that is fantastic for tactile switches . It reduces scratch while leaving the tactile snap crisp and uncompromised.

A lighter synthetic oil used specifically for springs (to kill spring ping/crunch).

Essential Tools Needed

• Switch opener (matched to your switch type, e.g., Cherry MX style vs. Kailh box)
• Fine paintbrush (Size 0 or 00)
• Stem holder / claw to grip the switch stem safely
• Precision tweezers
• Lube station or clean surface (like a small ceramic palette or the inside of the lube jar lid)

Step-by-Step Lubing Guide

1. Disassemble the Switch : Pop the switch open using your switch opener . Separate it into four parts: the top housing, the bottom housing, the stem, and the spring. Organize them in a tray or distinct sections of your workspace.
2. Lube the Springs (Kill the Ping) : You can individually brush the top and bottom coils of each spring, or use the bag-lubing method : drop your springs into a clean Ziploc bag, add 4 to 6 drops of Krytox 105 oil Go to product viewer dialog for this item. (or a tiny dab of 205g0), inflate the bag with air, and gently shake it for a minute.
3. Lube the Bottom Housing : Dip your brush into the 205g0/3203, then wipe almost all of it off on the edge of your container. The brush should look almost dry—less is always more . Lightly swipe the brush along the two vertical guide rails where the stem slides. Avoid the central metal contact leaf entirely.
4. Lube the Stem : Grab the stem with your stem holder. Apply a microscopic sheen of lube to the two flat sides (the rails that contact the housing) and the front/back.
   • Crucial rule for tactile switches: Do not lube the legs (the little side-protrusions that hit the metal leaf), or you will accidentally turn your tactiles into mushy linears.
5. Lube the Top Housing (Optional) : If you want maximum smoothness, swipe a residual trace of lube on the inner guide rails of the top housing, though many builders skip this step to save time.
6. Reassemble and Test : Snap the top housing, stem, spring, and bottom housing back together. Press the switch a few times with your finger to ensure it moves freely and isn't sluggish or sticky. If it feels gummy, you used too much lube.

To help tailor this, let me know:

• Are your switches linear, tactile, or clicky?
• Are the switches soldered to the board, or is it a hot-swappable keyboard?

Absolutely. If the switches feel scratchy, hand-lubing is one of the best fixes—but the right lube depends heavily on whether they're linear, tactile, or clicky.

My recommendation

For a first-time linear build, I'd get Krytox 205g0. A 5 mL container is enough for roughly 400–500 switches according to one current listing.

Krytox 205g0 5ml

$11.99

You'll also want a very small brush, tweezers, a switch opener, and ideally a lube station. A station isn't mandatory, though—it mostly makes doing 70–100 switches much less tedious.

Glorious Keyboard Lube Brush

$4.99

Inland MK Toolset

$12.99

Glorious Lube Station

$34.99

The basic process

1. Remove the keycaps and switches.
2. Open each switch with the correct switch opener.
3. Separate the top housing, bottom housing, stem, and spring.
4. Put a tiny amount of lube on your brush.
5. Bottom housing: lightly coat the two stem rails. You want a barely visible film—not white blobs.
6. Stem: lightly coat the contact surfaces/sliders. For linears, you can also lightly coat the stem legs.
7. Spring: ideally use Krytox 105 oil; bag-lubing all the springs together is considerably faster.
8. Put everything back together and test a few switches before doing the entire board.

The most important beginner rule is less lube than you think. Too much 205g0 can make a switch feel sluggish or mushy, whereas adding more later is easy.

For springs:

Krytox GPL 105

$9.95

A good visual guide

urn0youtube13

This is a nice hands-on demonstration of opening an MX-style switch and applying 205g0 to the housing, spring, stem, and top housing.

There's also a detailed written walkthrough from Tom's Hardware covering the tools, bottom housing, springs, stem, and reassembly.

One important caveat: if you tell me the exact switch you're using (e.g. Gateron Oil King, Cherry MX Brown, Akko Cream Yellow, Gateron Jupiter, etc.), I can tell you exactly which parts to lube and which parts to leave dry, because the technique changes noticeably between switch types.