My wood deck is looking weathered. What's the best way to clean and re-stain it?

Yes—if the boards are structurally sound, a weathered deck can usually be brought back quite nicely. The key is good preparation; staining over dirt, mildew, or loose old finish is the fastest way to get a disappointing result.

The process I'd use

1. Inspect first

• Replace boards that are soft, rotted, badly cracked, or structurally questionable.
• Tighten protruding screws/nails.
• Check railings and stairs carefully.

2. Sweep and clean

• Remove furniture, leaves, and debris.
• Apply a dedicated wood/deck cleaner with a pump sprayer.
• Let it dwell according to the product directions—many cleaners call for roughly 15 minutes.
• Scrub with a stiff synthetic-bristle brush, working with the grain.
• Rinse extremely thoroughly.

3. Pressure-wash only if needed

• A garden hose is gentler and often sufficient.
• If you use a pressure washer, use a relatively low pressure and a wide fan tip. One manufacturer recommends about 1,200–1,400 psi, holding the nozzle 8–12 inches away and spraying with the grain. Too much pressure can permanently furrow soft wood.

4. Strip old stain if necessary

• If there is significant old stain/sealer remaining, use a deck-stain stripper rather than simply putting new stain over it.
• After stripping, follow the product's neutralizing/brightening instructions and rinse thoroughly.

5. Let it dry completely

• Don't rush this. Depending on weather, allow roughly 24–48 hours.
• A useful test: sprinkle water on the boards. If it soaks into the wood, rather than beading up, the deck is generally ready for stain.

6. Sand the rough areas

• Lightly sand splintered/rough areas and any raised wood fibers.
• You don't necessarily need to sand the entire deck down to bare wood unless you're trying to completely remove an existing finish.

7. Choose your stain

• Transparent: most natural-looking, but shows weathering and imperfections.
• Semi-transparent: usually my choice for an older deck—it adds color while retaining some wood grain.
• Solid stain: best if the wood is heavily weathered or has uneven discoloration; it gives much more uniform color but looks more like paint.

8. Apply the stain

• Pick a dry period with no rain expected for at least 24–48 hours.
• Avoid the hottest part of the day and direct, intense sunlight.
• Work with the grain, maintaining a wet edge to prevent lap marks.
• A roller/pad is efficient for the deck boards; use a brush to work stain into cracks, edges, and between boards.
• Don't automatically apply two coats—follow the specific stain manufacturer's instructions.

9. Give it time to cure

• Keep furniture and foot traffic off it for the period specified by the stain manufacturer; 24–48 hours is common, while some products take longer.

One important distinction

If your deck is gray and weathered but has little/no remaining finish, cleaning + light sanding + a quality semi-transparent stain is relatively straightforward.

If it's already coated with an old solid stain/paint that's peeling, I'd take a different approach—stripping/scraping and more extensive sanding may be necessary.

If you tell me what kind of wood it is (cedar, redwood, pressure-treated pine, etc.), whether it currently has stain/paint on it, and roughly how old it is, I can give you a specific step-by-step restoration plan and recommend the right type of stain.

Cleaning and re-staining a weathered wood deck takes a solid weekend , but it completely transforms the space. Follow this step-by-step process for professional-looking results:

1. Prep and Inspect

• Clear the deck : Remove all furniture, planters, and debris. Sweep the surface thoroughly.
• Check fasteners : Walk the deck with a hammer or mallet. Drive any protruding nails or screws flush (or slightly below) the surface so they don't snag your sander or stain pad.
• Protect surroundings : Wet nearby plants and shrubs with water, and use plastic sheeting or painter's tape to protect your siding.

2. Clean and Strip

• Apply deck cleaner/stripper : Wet the wood and apply an oxygen-bleach deck cleaner or a dedicated wood stripper (using a pump sprayer or roller) to break down old failing finish, dirt, and mildew.
• Scrub : Work the solution into the wood grain using a stiff-bristle, long-handled scrub brush. Let it sit for 10–15 minutes without letting it dry out.
• Rinse : Wash the deck clean using a garden hose or a pressure washer on a very low, wide setting (keep the nozzle at least 12 inches from the wood to avoid gouging the grain).

3. Sand (Optional but Recommended)

• Let it dry : Allow the wood to dry completely, usually 48 hours.
• Smooth the surface : Use an orbital sander with 60- or 80-grit sandpaper to remove any remaining stubborn stain spots, rough patches, or "fuzz" raised by washing. Blow away all the dust when finished.

4. Apply the Stain

• Check the weather : Pick a dry weekend with moderate temperatures (50°F to 80°F) and no direct, blazing sunlight , which causes the stain to dry too fast before absorbing.
• Do the railings first : Use a paintbrush to coat the railings and balusters, working from top to bottom.
• Stain the floorboards : Use a flat paint-pad applicator or brush, going in the direction of the wood grain. Coat 2 to 3 boards at a time from end to end.
• Wipe excess : If using a penetrating stain, wipe away any pooling excess with a clean rag after a few minutes so it doesn't dry sticky.
• Cure : Keep foot traffic off the deck for at least 24 to 48 hours.

Watch this helpful guide from The Home Depot to see the cleaning and scrubbing process in action:

1m How To Refinish a Deck | The Home Depot with ...161K views  · 5 years ago YouTube · The Home Depot

To help narrow down your approach, what type of stain (transparent, semi-transparent, or solid) and wood type are you working with?

Yes. For a weathered wood deck, the best results come from preparation rather than simply putting new stain over the old finish.

The process I’d use

1. Inspect and repair first

• Replace rotten, badly cracked, or warped boards.
• Tighten/replace protruding fasteners.
• Remove furniture and sweep thoroughly.

2. Determine whether old stain is still present

• If the deck is essentially bare, weathered gray wood, use a wood/deck cleaner.
• If there's significant old stain, especially peeling or uneven stain, use a deck stain/finish stripper, followed by a wood brightener/neutralizer.
• Don't assume a new stain will hide an old, failing finish—it can lead to poor adhesion and peeling.

3. Clean it

• Wet the deck, apply a purpose-made wood-deck cleaner, and let it dwell according to the label—many products are around 15 minutes.
• Scrub with a stiff synthetic-bristle brush with the grain.
• Rinse extremely well.

4. Pressure-wash carefully, if needed

• You don't need a pressure washer; a hose and vigorous scrubbing are safer.
• If you use one, don't blast the wood at close range. Manufacturer guidance commonly calls for a fan tip, keeping the nozzle roughly 8–12 inches away and moving with the grain. Excessive pressure can gouge the softer wood fibers.

5. Let it dry completely

• This is crucial. Depending on weather and the wood, give it roughly 24–72 hours.
• A simple test: sprinkle water on the surface. If it soaks into the wood rather than beading up, it's generally ready to accept stain.

6. Lightly sand

• Once dry, sand rough/raised fibers and remaining loose finish. An orbital sander with roughly 60–80 grit works well for weathered decking. Don't try to sand the entire deck to bare wood unless necessary.
• Sweep/vacuum all sanding dust afterward.

7. Choose the stain

• Semi-transparent stain: My usual choice if the wood still looks reasonably good. It lets the grain show and is easier to maintain.
• Solid stain: Better if the deck is heavily weathered, mismatched, or has lots of cosmetic imperfections. It gives much more uniform color but looks more like paint.
• For a deck that's already gray and beat-up, I'd generally lean toward a quality semi-transparent stain if the wood is sound, or solid stain if appearance is too uneven to restore.

8. Apply it properly

• Follow the specific stain manufacturer's coverage and drying instructions.
• Brush/roll with the grain, working in manageable sections and maintaining a wet edge.
• Don't apply in blazing sun or when rain is imminent. Some manufacturers recommend having 24–48 hours without rain around the application.
• Pay particular attention to end grain and the spaces between boards, but don't allow puddles of stain to remain.

One important caveat

If the deck has deep rot, widespread soft spots, structural cracking, or boards that crumble when probed with a screwdriver, cleaning and staining won't fix the underlying problem. Those boards should be replaced first.

If you tell me what type of wood it is (pressure-treated pine, cedar, etc.), whether there's currently stain on it, and roughly how gray/rough it is, I can recommend the specific cleaning/stripping approach and what type of stain I'd use.

Restoring a weathered wood deck takes a bit of elbow grease, but it completely transforms your outdoor space . Follow this step-by-step guide to get professional-looking results.

Watch this helpful guide from The Home Depot on how to prep your deck for staining:

2m How to Prep a Deck for Staining | The Home Depot 241K views  · 4 years ago YouTube · The Home Depot

1. Prep and Inspect

2. Clear the deck : Remove all furniture, planters, and debris. Sweep the surface thoroughly.

3. Check for damage : Walk the deck and look for rotted wood, wobbling posts, or loose boards. Screw down any popping or protruding nails/screws flush with the wood surface. Replace any severely damaged boards.

4. Protect surrounding areas : Tape plastic sheeting or drop cloths over nearby siding, brick, and delicate plants. Pre-wet nearby grass and shrubs with water to dilute any runoff from cleaners.

5. Clean and Strip

6. Apply a deck cleaner or stripper : Use a quality wood cleaner or stripper (depending on whether you have old, peeling finish to remove). Apply it using a pump sprayer or roller.

7. Scrub : Let the cleaner sit for 10 to 15 minutes (without letting it dry out completely), then scrub the surface with a stiff, synthetic-bristle brush to lift embedded dirt, mildew, and gray wood fibers.

8. Rinse : Rinse thoroughly using a garden hose or a pressure washer on a very wide, low-pressure setting (15° to 25° fan tip, kept at least 12 inches from the wood to avoid gouging).

9. Sand (if needed) : If the grain raised up "fuzzy" or stubborn stains remain, touch up those spots with an orbital sander (80-grit paper) once the wood dries.

10. Dry Completely

• Allow the deck to dry thoroughly. This usually takes 24 to 48 hours depending on the weather.
• The moisture test : Sprinkle a few drops of water on the wood. If it beads up, the wood is still too wet; if it absorbs into the board, you are ready to stain.

4. Apply the Stain

5. Check the forecast : Pick a stretch of dry weather with temperatures consistently between 50°F and 90°F. Avoid direct, blazing midday sun if possible, as it can make the stain dry too fast.

6. Choose your stain : Decide between transparent, semi-transparent, or solid stain based on how much natural wood grain you want to show through. (Make sure to check compatibility if you are applying over remnants of an old finish).

7. Stain in sections : Work in the direction of the wood grain, coating 2 to 3 boards at a time from end to end to avoid lap marks. A staining pad on a long handle or an appropriate brush works best for flat boards, while a smaller brush handles railings and balusters.

8. Apply thin coats : Avoid over-applying or pooling the stain; thin, even coats absorb and wear much better than thick globs.

Check out product options and guidelines on retailer sites like Lowe's Deck Care Guide before you head out to buy supplies.

If you'd like, let me know:

• What type of wood your deck is made of (pressure-treated pine, cedar, redwood)
• Whether there is an existing old finish/stain on it right now

I can help you pick the exact right type of stain or stripper for your setup.

Refreshing a weathered wood deck takes a bit of elbow grease, but doing it right protects the wood and makes it look brand-new . Plan for a clear weather window with no rain forecasted for 24 to 48 hours and temperatures between 50°F and 90°F.

Watch this helpful guide from The Home Depot on how to properly prep your deck for staining:

2m How to Prep a Deck for Staining | The Home Depot 240K views  · 4 years ago YouTube · The Home Depot

Step 1: Inspect and Repair

• Clear everything off the deck—furniture, planters, and grills.
• Check for damage by probing soft spots with a screwdriver or awl. Replace any rotted, cracked, or warped boards.
• Secure fasteners by driving any popped nails or loose screws flush or slightly below the wood surface.

Step 2: Clean and Strip

• Sweep and clear all loose leaves and debris from the surface and gaps.
• Apply a deck cleaner or stripper (following manufacturer instructions) using a pump sprayer or roller. Let it sit for 10–15 minutes, making sure it doesn't dry out by misting it with water if necessary.
• Scrub the wood with a stiff, synthetic-bristle brush, moving in the direction of the grain.
• Rinse thoroughly using a garden hose or a pressure washer on a low-pressure, wide-angle setting (at least 25° to 40° tip, kept well back from the wood) moving strictly with the grain.

Step 3: Sand and Dry

• Let it dry completely , which usually takes 24 to 48 hours. Test dryness by splashing a few drops of water; if it beads up, the wood is still too wet; if it sinks in, you're ready to proceed.
• Lightly sand any fuzzy, rough, or splintered spots with an orbital sander (60-grit to 80-grit) to open up the wood pores so it can absorb the stain evenly. Sweep or blow away the dust.

Step 4: Apply the Stain

• Tape off siding and cover nearby plants with drop cloths or plastic sheeting.
• Cut in with a brush along the railings, corners, and between board gaps first. Match your brush type to your product (natural bristles for oil-based, synthetic for water-based).
• Roll or pad the main surface using a flat stain pad or roller on a pole, working 2 to 3 boards at a time from end to end to avoid lap marks.
• Back-brush or wipe away excess puddles to ensure an even, uniform coat that penetrates the wood rather than sitting on top. Allow it to cure fully for at least 24–48 hours before walking on it or moving furniture back.

To help tailor this, do you know what type of previous finish (transparent, semi-transparent, or solid stain/paint) is currently on the deck, or if the wood is cedar, redwood, or pressure-treated pine?

Yes. If the deck is structurally sound, a weathered gray appearance is usually very recoverable. The key is cleaning and surface prep before staining—don't just put a new coat over the old finish.

The approach I'd use

1. Inspect first

   • Replace rotten/cracked boards and tighten loose screws.
   • Look for splinters and areas where the old finish is peeling.
   • If boards are badly deteriorated, staining won't fix the underlying problem.

2. Clean it thoroughly

   • Sweep/blow off leaves and dirt.
   • Wet the deck, then apply a deck/wood cleaner with a pump sprayer.
   • Let it work for roughly 10 minutes, then scrub with a stiff synthetic-bristle brush and rinse thoroughly. This is actually preferable to aggressively pressure-washing the wood.
   • If you do use a pressure washer, use a wide fan tip and keep it moving; concentrated spray can gouge the wood fibers.

3. If there's old stain, remove what's necessary

   • If the previous stain is peeling or flaking, use a deck stripper as appropriate and then rinse.
   • Don't necessarily try to get every trace of old penetrating stain off; the goal is a clean, sound, uniformly absorbent surface.

4. Let it dry completely

   • This is one of the most important steps. Give it several dry days after washing.
   • A useful test is to sprinkle water on the boards. If it soaks in rather than beading, the wood is ready to accept stain.

5. Sand lightly

   • Sand away remaining roughness, splinters and loose finish, following the grain.
   • For heavily weathered wood, progressively finer grits can be used; the 2026 This Old House guide recommends 40 → 60 → 80 grit when substantial old finish needs removal.
   • Vacuum/blow away all sanding dust.

6. Choose the stain

   For a typical older wood deck, I'd lean toward a penetrating semi-transparent stain. It adds pigment and UV protection while still showing the wood grain, and it tends to be easier to maintain than a film-forming solid stain.

   • Transparent: most natural-looking, least UV protection.
   • Semi-transparent: my usual choice for weathered wood.
   • Solid: best if the wood looks uneven or heavily weathered, but it hides the grain and can eventually peel.

7. Apply carefully

   • Stain the railings first, then the deck.
   • Work with the grain, only a few boards at a time.
   • Maintain a wet edge to prevent lap marks.
   • Don't let puddles of stain sit on the surface.
   • Follow the particular stain manufacturer's instructions for number of coats and drying time.

One thing I'd not do

I wouldn't reach immediately for a high-pressure washer and blast the deck. That's a common way to turn a weathered deck into a fuzzy, gouged deck. A chemical deck cleaner + stiff brush + thorough rinse is a much more forgiving DIY approach.

If you tell me what kind of wood your deck is (pressure-treated pine, cedar, redwood, etc.), whether it currently has stain/paint on it, and roughly how old it is, I can recommend the specific cleaning method and type/color of stain I'd use.

Reviving a weathered wood deck takes a bit of elbow grease, but the results are completely worth it. Here is the step-by-step process to get your deck looking like new.

1. Preparation and Inspection

• Clear the deck : Remove all furniture, planters, and decor.
• Check for damage : Walk the deck and inspect the boards. Replace any rotting, splintered, or severely warped boards, and countersunk any protruding nails or screws.
• Protect surrounding areas : Wet down surrounding plants and shrubs with water and cover them with plastic drop cloths to protect them from cleaning chemicals and stains.

2. Cleaning and Stripping

• Sweep and clear debris : Sweep away loose dirt and leaves, especially between the deck boards using a putty knife or specialized tool.
• Apply a deck cleaner or stripper : Use a wood cleaner for general dirt and mildew, or a wood stripper if there is old, peeling paint or solid stain left over. Apply it using a pump sprayer or a roller.
• Scrub the wood : Scrub the boards gently with a stiff-bristled, long-handled brush. Work in the direction of the wood grain.
• Rinse thoroughly : Use a garden hose with a spray nozzle or a pressure washer on a very low, safe setting (under 1500 psi) to rinse away all the cleaner and lifted dirt. Let the wood dry completely—usually 48 hours—before moving on.

3. Sanding

• Smooth the surface : Once dry, sand the deck with an orbital sander (80- to 100-grit sandpaper) to remove any remaining rough spots, fuzz raised by the power washer, or residual finish.
• Clean up dust : Sweep and vacuum all the sanding dust, then wipe down the deck with a damp cloth or leaf blower.

4. Staining and Sealing

• Choose your stain : Pick the right opacity—clear (shows all grain, least protection), transparent/semi-transparent (enhances grain with some color), or semi-solid/solid (heavily pigmented, hides grain, lasts longest).
• Check the forecast : Ensure no rain is predicted for at least 48 hours and temperatures stay roughly between 50°F and 90°F. Avoid staining in direct, hot sunlight.
• Apply the stain : Use a stain pad, brush, or roller. Work on 2 to 3 boards at a time from end to end to avoid lap marks. Back-brush any puddles or drips so the coat goes on evenly.
• Let it cure : Allow the stain to dry completely according to the manufacturer's instructions (usually 24 to 48 hours) before putting furniture back or walking heavily on it.

If you'd like, let me know:

• What type of wood is your deck (pressure-treated pine, cedar, redwood, etc.)?
• Is there any old peeling finish currently on it?

Yes—if the boards are structurally sound, a weathered deck can usually be brought back nicely. The prep is more important than the stain itself.

1. Inspect and repair first

Before cleaning, check for:

• Soft/rotted boards—replace them rather than staining over them.
• Loose or protruding screws/nails.
• Cracked or badly warped boards.
• Rot around posts, stairs, and where the deck meets the house.

2. Clean it thoroughly

1. Sweep off leaves and dirt.
2. Apply a deck-specific wood cleaner according to its directions.
3. Let it dwell—often around 15 minutes—without letting it dry.
4. Scrub with a stiff synthetic-bristle brush.
5. Rinse very thoroughly with a hose.

A pressure washer is optional. If you use one, keep it relatively gentle—Sherwin-Williams recommends about 1,200–1,400 psi, a 45° tip, 8–12 inches from the wood, spraying with the grain. Too much pressure can chew up the soft surface fibers.

If there's substantial old stain, particularly peeling or flaking material, use a deck stripper rather than simply washing over it. If the existing finish is sound and compatible with the new stain, complete stripping may not be necessary.

3. Let it dry completely

This is where people most often rush.

Give it at least 24–48 hours, and longer if the boards still look or feel damp. A simple test is to sprinkle water on the surface: if it beads up, the wood isn't ready; if it readily soaks in, you're much closer.

4. Sand only where needed

Lightly sand rough, fuzzy, splintered areas and any remaining old finish. You don't necessarily need to sand every square inch down to bare wood.

If the deck is older pressure-treated lumber, particularly pre-2004 wood, take extra precautions with sanding because some older treated lumber contained arsenic compounds.

5. Choose a penetrating stain

For a weathered deck, I'd generally choose a penetrating semi-transparent stain rather than a clear finish. It adds pigment and UV protection while still showing the wood grain, and penetrating stains are less prone to the peeling/chipping associated with film-forming finishes.

If the wood is very uneven or heavily weathered and you want to hide defects, a solid-color stain is another option.

6. Apply carefully

• Check the stain manufacturer's temperature and moisture requirements.
• Aim for several consecutive dry days; don't stain immediately before rain.
• Avoid blazing direct sun if possible.
• Do railings and vertical surfaces first, then the deck boards.
• Work in manageable sections and maintain a wet edge.
• Don't leave puddles of stain sitting on the surface.
• Follow the can's instructions regarding a second coat—more isn't necessarily better.

For a Pacific Northwest deck, I'd be especially patient about the drying window. Moisture trapped in the wood is a recipe for premature finish failure.

If you tell me what kind of wood your deck is (cedar, pressure-treated pine, etc.), whether it currently has stain/paint on it, and roughly how old it is, I can recommend the exact cleaning/stripping approach and the type of stain I'd use.

Reviving a weathered wood deck takes a bit of elbow grease, but it completely transforms your outdoor space. Here is the step-by-step process to get a professional-looking, long-lasting finish.

1. Preparation and Clearing

• Clear the deck : Move all furniture, planters, rugs, and accessories off the deck entirely.
• Inspect the wood : Check for loose boards, protruding nails, or screws. Hammer down any popped nails or swap them out for deck screws so they won't snag your sander or tools later.
• Protect surrounding areas : Wet down nearby plants and cover delicate landscaping or siding with plastic drop cloths to protect them from cleaning chemicals and stain splashes.

2. Cleaning and Stripping

• Sweep and clear debris : Sweep away loose dirt, leaves, and pine needles, especially between the deck boards.
• Apply a deck cleaner/stripper : Use a commercial oxygen bleach-based deck cleaner (for general dirt and mildew) or a wood stripper (if there is an old, failing finish left behind). Apply it using a pump sprayer or roller.
• Scrub the surface : Work the cleaner into the wood using a stiff-bristled, long-handled deck brush. Pay special attention to high-traffic areas and corners.
• Rinse thoroughly : Use a garden hose with a spray nozzle or a pressure washer on a very low, safe setting (under 1500 psi to avoid gouging the soft wood fibers). Rinse all the chemical residue completely off.

3. Drying

• Wait for it to dry : Let the deck dry completely. This usually takes 48 to 72 hours depending on the weather, direct sunlight, and humidity.
• The moisture test : Drop a few droplets of water onto the wood. If it beads up, the wood is still holding moisture and you need to wait longer. If it soaks in quickly, you are ready to move on.

4. Sanding (Crucial for a Smooth Finish)

• Sand the surface : Lightly sand the deck using a pole sander or an orbital sander (80- to 100-grit paper). This opens up the wood pores so it can accept the stain evenly and knocks down any splinters or raised grain from washing.
• Clean up the dust : Sweep and vacuum all sanding dust thoroughly, then wipe the deck down with a damp cloth or leaf blower.

5. Applying the Stain

• Choose your stain : Decide between a clear sealer, a transparent stain, a semi-transparent stain (shows wood grain with rich color), or a solid stain (opaque, acts like paint).
• Check the forecast : Pick a stretch of dry, mild days where the temperature stays between 50°F and 90°F and no rain is forecasted for at least 48 hours. Avoid applying stain in direct, blazing sunlight.
• Stain in sections : Work along the length of 2 to 3 boards at a time from end to end to avoid lap marks. Use a brush for corners and gaps, and a roller or pad applicator for the broad surfaces. Back-brush any puddles or pools so the coverage is uniform.

6. Curing

• Let it cure : Allow the stain to dry and cure fully. Avoid walking heavily on it for 24 to 48 hours, and wait at least 3 to 5 days before dragging furniture back onto the deck.

If you'd like to narrow this down, let me know:

• What kind of wood is your deck made of (pressure-treated pine, cedar, redwood)?
• Is there an old failing stain or paint currently on it?

Yes. For a weathered wood deck, the best results come from treating this as a prep job first and a staining job second. The biggest mistake is putting new stain over dirt, mildew, or failing old finish.

The process I'd use

1. Inspect it first

   • Replace boards that are rotten or badly split.
   • Drive down protruding screws/nails.
   • Remove furniture and sweep thoroughly.
   • If the old stain is badly peeling, plan on using a deck stripper rather than simply washing it.

2. Clean/strip the wood

   • For a deck that's just gray, dirty, or mildly weathered, use a purpose-made wood/deck cleaner.
   • Apply it in manageable sections, keep the surface wet while it works, then scrub with a stiff synthetic-bristle brush and rinse thoroughly.
   • If there's substantial old stain/sealer, use a compatible stain & sealer remover/stripper, followed by a wood brightener/neutralizer.

3. Be careful with the pressure washer You don't need one, and a garden hose plus good scrubbing is safer for most DIY jobs. If you do pressure-wash, use a relatively low pressure, a wide fan tip, keep the wand moving with the grain, and don't get close enough to carve grooves into the wood. Sherwin-Williams recommends 1,200–1,400 psi with a 45° tip and 8–12 inches of distance.

4. Let it dry completely This is critical. Give it roughly 24–48 hours of dry weather after cleaning, and follow the stain manufacturer's moisture/drying requirements.

5. Sand where necessary Don't automatically sand the entire deck down to bare wood. Sand rough areas, splinters, fuzzy wood fibers, and stubborn remnants of old finish. A floor/deck sander can make sense for a severely weathered deck.

6. Choose the stain For a weathered deck, I'd generally choose a penetrating exterior deck stain rather than a film-forming coating. If you want to retain a lot of the natural wood appearance, choose transparent/semitransparent; if the wood is quite uneven or heavily weathered, a more opaque stain will hide discoloration better.

7. Apply carefully

   • Check the forecast—ideally you want a dry period after application.
   • Test the color in an inconspicuous spot first.
   • Work in manageable sections and maintain a wet edge.
   • Brush stain into the wood rather than simply leaving a thick layer sitting on top.
   • Do railings/spindles before the deck boards.
   • Follow the particular product's instructions for whether it wants one or two coats and its required recoat time.

One important exception

If your deck is very gray, has black/green mildew, or has several layers of peeling stain, tell me that before you start. The ideal cleaning/stripping approach changes substantially.

If you tell me (1) what kind of wood it is, (2) roughly how old it is, and (3) whether the existing finish is peeling, faded, or mostly gone, I can give you a specific cleaning + stain procedure and recommend the type of stain to buy.