What is the best caulk for re-sealing a bathtub?

For re-sealing a bathtub, 100% waterproof silicone caulk is the gold standard. Unlike latex or acrylic blends, pure silicone doesn't shrink, resists mold and mildew long-term, and flexes with the minor movements of a tub.

Top-performing products for this specific job include:

Add to list Widely considered the best all-rounder for DIYers. It is 100% silicone, cures quickly, and features strong mold-resistant protection.

Add to list Offers maximum adhesion and flexibility with a fast water-ready cure time, though it has a stronger odor during application (acetic acid/vinegar smell).

Add to list Excellent waterproof seal that sets in about 30 minutes and resists yellowing, shrinking, or cracking.

Pro-Tips for a Long-Lasting Seal:

If you'd like, I can share:

• A step-by-step guide on how to remove old stubborn caulk
• Tips for getting a perfect, professional-looking smooth bead

Let me know what you need help with next!

For re-sealing a bathtub, the best choice is usually a 100% silicone kitchen-and-bath caulk. It stays flexible as the tub moves slightly, is fully waterproof, and resists cracking better than acrylic latex caulks.

My top picks:

• Best overall: GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant — premium 100% silicone, very flexible, waterproof, and designed for wet areas.
• Best value: GE Advanced Silicone 2 Kitchen & Bath Sealant — excellent durability for most bathtub surrounds and showers.
• Good alternative: DAP Silicone Max Kitchen & Bath Sealant — 100% silicone with strong adhesion and mold/mildew resistance.
• Also solid: Gorilla Waterproof Caulk & Seal 100% Silicone Sealant — easy to find and performs well for bathroom applications.

A few tips matter as much as the brand:

1. Remove all old caulk completely (especially old silicone). New silicone does not bond well to leftover silicone residue.
2. Clean and dry the joint thoroughly before applying. Soap film and moisture are common causes of early failure.
3. Use a small, continuous bead rather than a thick blob. Smooth it once and avoid repeatedly touching it.
4. Let it cure according to the label before using the tub/shower (often about 24 hours, though some products advertise shorter water-ready times).

Avoid regular painter’s caulk or basic acrylic caulk for the tub edge—it tends to shrink and crack in constantly wet, flexible joints.

If you tell me whether your tub is acrylic/fiberglass, porcelain/enamel, or tile, and whether it’s a tub-only or tub/shower combo, I can suggest the best specific type and color.

For re-sealing a bathtub, 100% waterproof silicone caulk specifically formulated for kitchens and baths is the gold standard. It stays flexible as the tub shifts with weight and water, resists shrinking, and stands up to constant moisture.

The top-rated choices on the market feature distinct advantages depending on your project needs:

• Why it’s great: Widely considered the top overall performer by trade professionals and testing publications (like Bob Vila ), GE’s 100% silicone formulas offer exceptional flexibility and adhesion. The GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant Go to product viewer dialog for this item. is shower-ready in as little as 30 minutes, won't crack or shrink, and includes robust mold-free protection.

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• Why it’s great: Known for incredible, aggressive adhesion, Gorilla Waterproof Silicone forms a crystal-clear or bright white seal that won't yellow, crack, or break down under heavy water exposure. It is water-ready fast and provides a heavy-duty mildew-resistant barrier.

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• Why it’s great: If you are a beginner worried about the messy application and cleanup of pure silicone, this is your best alternative. While pure silicone requires mineral spirits for cleanup and cannot be painted, DAP Kwik Seal Plus goes on smoothly, cleans up easily with water, is paintable , and contains mildewcide. (Note: It is slightly less durable long-term than 100% silicone in high-puddle areas).

Quick Tips for a Pro Finish:

• Strip the old caulk completely: Use a scraper and a caulk remover chemical if necessary. Any mold or old residue left behind will prevent the new caulk from sticking.
• Clean and dry: Wipe the joint down with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry completely (at least a few hours) before applying.
• Fill the tub first: If it’s a full-sized acrylic or fiberglass tub, fill it with water before you caulk and keep it filled until the caulk cures. This weights the tub into its natural flexed position so the caulk doesn't stretch and tear when you take a bath later.

If you'd like, let me know:

• Is your bathtub fiberglass, acrylic, or cast iron?
• Are you looking for clear or white caulk?

I can give you step-by-step application instructions tailored to your specific setup.

For re-sealing a bathtub, 100% silicone kitchen-and-bath caulk is the best choice. It stays flexible, is fully waterproof, and resists cracking and mildew better than ordinary acrylic/latex caulk.

• GE Advanced Silicone 2 Kitchen & Bath — White - $11.48 (The Home Depot)

My pick

GE Advanced Silicone 2 Kitchen & Bath — especially the white version for a typical white tub. It's 100% silicone, waterproof, permanently flexible, and designed specifically for wet areas. Current retail listings show it around $11 for a 10.1-oz tube.

Good alternatives:

• GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath — a premium option with strong mildew resistance.

• DAP Silicone Max Kitchen & Bath — another excellent 100% silicone option.

• Gorilla Waterproof Silicone — also very good; an independent 2026 test rated it best overall.

One important tip

Don't caulk over the existing caulk. Remove all of the old bead, clean off the residue, and let the joint become completely dry before applying the new silicone.

If you're resealing the tub-to-tile joint, I can also walk you through the best way to get a clean, professional-looking bead without making a mess.

For re-sealing a bathtub, the short answer is that 100% silicone caulk (specifically formulated for kitchens and baths) is the gold standard. It provides unmatched water resistance and flexibility to handle slight shifts when the tub is filled.

Top-performing options depend on your specific priorities:

GE Advanced Silicone 2 Kitchen & Bath Sealant — Widely regarded as a top all-around pick by DIYers and pros alike. It is 100% waterproof, features strong adhesion, cures to be water-ready in just 30 minutes, and includes long-term mold-free protection.

Gorilla Waterproof Silicone Caulk & Seal — A top choice for everyday durability. It offers an aggressive waterproof seal that resists shrinking and cracking, cures quickly, and flexes nicely with movement.

DAP Kwik Seal Ultra — A high-performance siliconized acrylic hybrid. If you are a beginner worried about the messy cleanup of 100% silicone, this option tools smoothly and cleans up with water , yet still provides a lifetime mold-resistance guarantee and water readiness in 4 hours.

Key Tips for a Lasting Seal

1. Strip the old caulk completely: Use a utility knife or plastic scraper to remove every trace of the old seal. Silicone caulk does not stick to old silicone , so any leftover residue will cause the new bead to fail.
2. Sanitize and dry: Scrub the joint, treat any existing mildew with a bleach/water or vinegar solution, wipe the area down with rubbing alcohol, and let it dry completely (at least a few hours).
3. Fill the tub first: If you are sealing a bathtub/shower combo, fill the tub with water before you apply the caulk and keep it filled until the caulk cures. This puts the joint under its maximum weight load so the caulk won't stretch and tear when you step in to take a bath or shower later.

If you'd like, tell me:

• What material is your bathtub made of (acrylic, porcelain, fiberglass)?
• Are you looking for clear or white?

I can give you more specific prep tips or recommend a precise match for your setup.

For re-sealing a bathtub, I’d go with a 100% silicone kitchen-and-bath sealant. It stays flexible, is waterproof, and handles the expansion/contraction and constant moisture much better than ordinary acrylic/latex caulk. Oatey and LATICRETE both specifically recommend 100% silicone for tub/shower joints.

🥇 My pick: GE Advanced Silicone 2

GE Advanced Silicone 2 Kitchen & Bath Sealant

$11.48

Why I like it: 100% silicone, waterproof, permanently flexible, and specifically designed for kitchens and bathrooms. It also has a very strong track record with thousands of reviews.

🥈 Excellent alternative: Gorilla 100% Silicone

Gorilla Waterproof 100% Silicone Sealant

$9.84

This is particularly attractive if you want clear caulk or need the tub back in service quickly—the manufacturer says it's ready for water exposure in about 30 minutes. Bob Vila's 2026 hands-on testing also rated Gorilla its best overall bathtub/shower caulk.

What I'd avoid

• ❌ Ordinary acrylic/latex caulk for the tub-to-tile seam
• ❌ Anything that isn't specifically rated for kitchen/bath
• ❌ "Paintable" caulk if you're prioritizing maximum waterproof durability

One important tip: The quality of the re-caulking job matters almost as much as the product. Remove all of the old caulk, clean off residue, let the joint get completely dry, then apply the new silicone. Don't simply caulk over the old bead.

If you tell me whether your tub is acrylic, fiberglass, porcelain, or cast iron, I can recommend the exact caulk/color and give you the easiest way to get a professional-looking bead.

For re-sealing a bathtub, the best choice is usually a 100% silicone bathroom caulk (not acrylic/latex). Silicone stays flexible, is waterproof, and handles the expansion and movement between the tub and tile better.

Good options:

1. Best overall: GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant

   • 100% silicone
   • Excellent flexibility for tub movement
   • Mold/mildew resistant
   • Good choice for a long-lasting tub surround seal

2. Best easy-to-find DIY option: Gorilla Waterproof Silicone Sealant

   • 100% silicone
   • Waterproof and flexible
   • Available in common colors like white and clear
   • Good for most tub-to-tile seams

3. Good value: GE Advanced Silicone 2 Kitchen & Bath Sealant

   • Reliable for standard bathtub resealing
   • Good adhesion to common bathroom surfaces
   • Available in white and clear

A few tips that matter as much as the caulk:

• Remove all old caulk first — new silicone will not bond well to old silicone.
• Clean the joint with rubbing alcohol and let it dry completely.
• Fill the bathtub with water before applying the final bead if the tub is flexible (especially acrylic/fiberglass), so the seal is formed under normal load.
• Don’t use the tub until the caulk’s full cure time has passed (often about 24 hours; check the tube).

If you’re sealing a porcelain tub with tile, I’d pick GE Supreme Silicone in white. If it’s a fiberglass/acrylic tub, I’d lean toward GE Advanced Silicone 2 or Gorilla Silicone because flexibility is especially important.

For re-sealing a bathtub, a 100% waterproof, mold- and mildew-resistant 100% silicone caulk is universally considered the best choice. Acrylic or latex-based caulks break down too quickly in continuously wet environments.

Top-rated bathtub caulks on the market include:

Widely praised as a top all-around performer . It creates a durable, flexible seal, resists yellowing and shrinking, and is water-ready in just 30 minutes.

Features 5 times stronger adhesion than standard silicone , won't discolor high-end metal finishes (like chrome or nickel), and includes long-term mold-free protection.

A reliable, budget-friendly 100% silicone option that offers strong adhesion and permanent flexibility for standard ceramic, porcelain, and glass interfaces.

If you prefer an easier cleanup or a paintable option (though less ideal for wet corners than pure silicone), this siliconized acrylic hybrid features Microban antimicrobial protection to fight mold on the surface.

Quick Pro-Tips for Application:

1. Strip the old completely : New silicone will not stick to old silicone. Strip every trace of the old bead out and scrub the area clean.
2. Sanitize and dry : Wipe the joint down with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry completely to kill any hidden mold spores.
3. Fill the tub first : Fill your bathtub with water before you caulk and leave it filled until the caulk fully cures. This weighs the tub down so the joint is compressed rather than stretched when you actually use the bath later.

If you'd like, tell me:

• What surfaces is the caulk touching (acrylic tub against tile, fiberglass surround, etc.)?
• Do you prefer a clear or white finish?

I can give you a step-by-step application walkthrough tailored to your exact setup.

For re-sealing a bathtub, the best choice is usually a 100% silicone kitchen & bath caulk. It stays flexible, is waterproof, and handles the expansion/contraction that happens as a tub fills with hot water and cools down. Avoid regular acrylic/latex caulk for the tub edge because it tends to shrink and crack sooner in wet areas.

Good options:

• Best overall: GE Advanced Silicone 2 Kitchen & Bath Sealant — 100% silicone, mold-resistant, flexible, and designed for wet areas.
• Premium choice: GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant — a higher-end 100% silicone option for a long-lasting seal.
• Easiest/fastest for many DIY jobs: Gorilla Waterproof Caulk & Seal 100% Silicone — 100% silicone and marketed as water-ready faster than many traditional silicones.

A few tips that matter more than the brand:

1. Remove all old caulk first. New silicone will not bond well to old silicone.
2. Clean with rubbing alcohol after scraping to remove soap residue and oils. Let it dry completely.
3. Fill the tub with water before applying the final bead (then drain after it cures) so the joint is sealed in the tub’s “loaded” position.
4. Wait for full cure before using the shower—often about 24 hours, though follow the product label.

If your tub is acrylic/fiberglass, cast iron, or tile, the best color and exact product can differ slightly.

When re-sealing a bathtub, a 100% silicone waterproof sealant is the gold standard. Unlike latex or basic acrylic, 100% silicone doesn’t break down under constant water exposure, resists mold/mildew growth, and stays permanently flexible to accommodate the shifting weight of a filled tub.

Top-performing options depend on your specific priorities:

Best Overall Performance: Gorilla Waterproof Silicone Caulk & Seal Go to product viewer dialog for this item. — Offers incredible adhesion to ceramic, glass, and metal, resists mold and mildew, and is water-ready in just 30 minutes.

Best for Long-Term Mold Resistance: [GE Advanced Silicone 2 Kitchen & Bath Sealant Go to product viewer dialog for this item. ](https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Advanced-Silicone-2-Caulk-10-1-oz-Kitchen-and-Bath-Sealant-White-2812565/317778410) — Highly flexible, shrinkage-proof, and features strong mold-free product protection (up to 10 years).

Easiest for Beginners (Easy Cleanup): DAP Kwik Seal Plus Go to product viewer dialog for this item. — A siliconized acrylic latex hybrid. While it doesn't last quite as long as 100% silicone in heavy-wet zones, it cleans up easily with water and is much more forgiving for first-time DIYers.

Pro-Tips for a Lasting Seal:

1. Remove all old caulk: Use a scraper or utility knife to clear away every trace of the old seal. New caulk will not stick to old caulk.
2. Sanitize and dry: Clean the gap thoroughly with rubbing alcohol and let it dry completely to eliminate hidden soap scum or mildew.
3. Fill the tub first: Fill your bathtub with water before you apply the caulk and keep it filled until the caulk cures. This weights the tub down so the joint expands; if you caulk an empty tub, the seal may stretch and crack the first time you step inside to take a bath.

If you'd like, let me know:

• Is the tub acrylic, fiberglass, or porcelain/tile?
• Do you prefer a clear or white finish?

I can give you more tailored advice or walk you through the step-by-step application process.